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• Paper Patterns. Download and print (100%!) out the patterns in your size.

• Cutter. For the best result use a sharp and steady cutter. Second best: leather scissors.

• Hole Punch. Lots of holes to be punched, use a good one.

• Paper Tape. Or transparent tape.

• Cutting Mat. Or thick solid cardboard.

• Pen. Use a silver-pen for black leather/soles.

• Ready to start making! Take your time and enjoy :) 

 

 

 

Step 1. Choose one of the styles from the 'Classic' or the 'One Piece' (or create your own) and cut out the paper patterns.

 

Step 2. Trace/draw the patterns on the leather with a (silver) pen.

- If you trace on the front of the leather, the 4 paper patterns are for the left shoe. 
  Flip the same patterns to trace the right shoe. 

- If you want to prevent marks on outside of the shoe, trace on the backside of the leather.

- ALERT: If you trace on the back then the front of the patterns are for the right shoe

- So you don’t forget: Mark the parts with ‘L’ and ‘R’.

 

Step 3. Cut the leather.

- Make some test cuts on the left over leather.

- Cut on the inside of the line to make it exactly the size of the pattern. 
  Also in the way the outside (or inside) of the shoe will be nice and clean

- Try to make long, fluent, clean, straight cuts to get the best result.

- Choose the right position to finish a cut in one time.

 

Step 4. Mark and punch the holes.

- Place the paper patterns on top of the leather patterns 
  and push through the paper, with an awl or a push-pin, to leave a mark in the leather.

- Punch 2.0 mm stitch holes and lace holes (3.0 mm or bigger) in the leather.

 

Step 5. Stitch the backstrap to the 2 upper side parts, at the center back.

- With thick/firm leather first cut off the sharp edge on the top of the strap 
  with a cutter or sand paper, on the backside of the leather. 
  This will prevent irritation on the heel.

- Take 70 cm of the thread and put it through the needle. No knot needed.

- Place the strap on one of the side parts. 
  Start stitching at the bottom on the outside and just leave about 5 cm thread hanging. 

- Stitch by following the holes to the top, to the other part and to the bottom again. 
  Some tension, not too tight, not too loose. 

- Then go around the second time to make a full stitch.

- At the end make a knot at the bottom with the beginning and the end of thread.

 

Step 6. Place the Hole Guide.

- Place the hole-pattern on top of the sole. With the mid-back mark exaclty in the middle at the back.

- Tape it to the sole on 2-4 points. 

 

Step 7. Mark the holes on the sole.

- Mark the holes inside the groove of the sole with a (silver)pen. The tape can cover some holes, make sure you don't forget those..

 

Step 8. Punch the holes in the sole.

- CAUTION! The 2.0 mm hole is slightly bigger than the groove: Don’t go above the groove. 
  The top of the hole should be at the top of the groove. The bottom can go a little bit under the groove. 

- The rubber might remain in the hole; just leave in, and afterwards, take the needle and push it out.

 

Step 9. Prepare stitching the upper to the sole.

- Take about 170 cm thread (3 times the outline of the sole) for the first sole. 

- Put thread through the needle. Pull it about 50 cm through the needle.

- Place the upper in the sole. The strap should be in the middle at the back

 

10. Stitch the upper to the sole.

- Start stitching at the back, next to the strap, on the inside. 
  (In the video we start in the middle, but at the back is better)

- Pull the thread through and leave about 5 cm of thread. Just like with the upper. 

- Stitch towards the front. 

- Add the nose piece, one hole before the last hole of the side piece.
  The nose piece and side pieces share 2 holes on both sides. 

- At the nose just stitch around all the way loosely (the first 20 stitches). And add the second side piece.

- After pull each stitch by hand to give it the right tension so the leather touches the sole (at the holes) 

- Pull a bit, but not too much. It is normal that the edge of the sole gets a little curvy because of the tension. 
  The trick is to pull it straight the second round of stitching. 

- CAUTION! At the back-strap make sure you stitch through the right holes: the ones above the bottom holes.

- When you reach the starting point again, turn around and stitch the second round to complete the stitch. 

- Try not to stitch through the thread. In this way you can still adjust the tension later.
 

 

Step 11. Make a straight stitch/edge.

- The trick is to give the stitching the right amount of tension. 
  Not too much not too little..
  The tension of the first and second round should be the same. 

- As you go around the second time focus on the getting it straight. 
  When you pull the thread, check if the stitch before is straight. 
  If it is curvy then either you pull too hard or not hard enough. 

 

Step 12. The second time at the nose is the toughest part. 

- When it is hard to find the hole from the inside just try to look between 
  the edge of the sole and the leather to check where the needle is. 

 

Step 13. Check if the sole is straight. 

- If not, change tension of the thread by pulling stitches one by one and go around. 

- Make a double knot in the end. The insole will cover it.


Step 14. Stitch the next one.


Step 15. Re-inforce the bottom of the insoles.

- The open structure of the outsole will damage the insole after a while.
We are developing a stronger insole, but for now you need to attach a layer of leather 
or thick fabric (or a few layers of DuckTape) to the bottom of the insole.

- Use glue or double-sided tape (CarpetTape) to attach the leather/fabric.


Step 16. Put in the insoles and laces: Done! 

Step 17. You just made you own sneakers! We would love to see the result.

- Please tag it with @sneakerkit on Instagram. 

- Or send your pics to: info@sneakerkit.eu

 

Any questons? Happy to help!

Please contact us on Instagram (@sneakerkit) or email (info@sneakertkit.eu).

 

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